Checks you should carry out every time you tow a trailer, with a car, to make sure you're towing safely and legally. 

The rules on what you can tow are different depending on when you passed your driving test.

Carry out the basic safety checks shown in this video to make sure that your vehicle and trailer are safe and legal.

The trailer is correctly coupled to the towball or pin - follow the manufacturer’s advice

The coupling height is correct

The 7 or 13 core cable and plug isn’t damaged

Breakaway cable

Use a breakaway cable or secondary coupling. This engages the trailer’s brakes (if fitted) or stops the trailer if it becomes detached from the car.

The cable isn’t worn or damaged

There’s enough slack in the cable so that it doesn’t accidentally apply the brakes

The cable won’t drag on the ground when you’re driving

Follow the manufacturer’s advice to make sure it’s connected correctly.

Check that the tyres on both the car and trailer:

Don’t have any cuts or bulges

Are inflated to the manufacturer’s specification for the load being carried

Check that each tyre has a tread depth of at least 1.6mm:

Across the central three-quarters of the breadth of the tread

Around the entire circumference of the tyre

Check that the wheel nuts and bolts are tightened to the correct torque.

Check that mudguards are fitted to the trailer and they’re secure.

Check that there’s no damage to the lights, and that they’re all working correctly.

The trailer isn’t overloaded

The load is distributed evenly

The load is secure

Find your car’s weight limit

The vehicle manufacturer’s plate gives information about weight limits for your car. Check the car’s handbook if a plate isn’t fitted.

The loaded trailer:

must not weigh over 750kg

should not weigh more than 50% of your car’s weight

The car and loaded trailer must not weigh over the second weight shown on the car manufacturer’s plates.

You must not drive faster than the speed limit for the type of road.

If the trailer starts to snake or swerve, ease off the accelerator and reduce your speed gently. It’s a sign that either:

You’re going too fast

The trailer is loaded incorrectly

Don’t brake harshly on a bend, as it makes the trailer unstable. Reduce your speed in plenty of time when approaching any hazard.

You must not drive in the right-hand lane of a motorway with 3 or more lanes.

•If the trailer will be standing for a length of time never leave the handbrake on – chock the wheels

• Rocking/revolving the wheels a couple of inches will help prevent the trailer from seizing up

• Don’t over grease the bearings as over greasing can push the rubber seal out or it could burst

• Use a good quality grease

• Check the expiry dates on your tyres as they have a life span of up to 7 years

• Be careful when driving over potholes as you can get bent axels

• Check your tyres aren’t worn

• Mud guards can be damaged from hitting the kerb

• Check the floor

• Lift the rubber mats, if the floor is wooden check for rotting, if the floor is aluminium check for cracks

• Take the rubber mat out when washing the inside

• Check the running gear/brakes

• Check the side panels for rotting at the bottom

• Ensure the ramp doors haven’t worn  

• Investigate wearing on the rear side of the trailer 

• If taking the boat to the water let the trailer cool for ½ hour before emerging it into the water

• After a trailer being submerged in the sea it is advised to flush the brakes/running with fresh water, this will prevent the trailer from rusting

• An option is to fit a flushing kit to the brakes if it’s a boat trailer

• If the trailer will be standing for a length of time, it’s advised to raise the trailer so that the tyres are off the ground. Use wooden blocks – not concrete or bricks as these can shatter/crumble

LEGAL 

REMEMBER THAT A ROAD TRAILER IS A VEHICLE SUBJECT TO THE LAW WHO HAVE POWERS TO INSPECT IT AT ANY TIME ON THE ROAD AND MAY PROSECUTE A USER WHERE THE TRAILER IS NOT IN CONFORMITY WITH THE LAW OR WHERE IT IS NOT IN A ROADWORTHY CONDITION. IT IS THE OWNERS RESPONSIBILITY TO CHECK AND MAINTAIN THE TRAILER TO ENSURE IT IS ROADWORTHY. FAILURE TO DO SO CAN RESULT IN EXPENSIVE REPAIRS OR PROSECUTION

Apply the handbrake (if applicable), remove any tow ball and electrical socket dust covers and security devices then wind the jockey wheel to the required height.

Check the tow ball is oiled, not greased and if not being used with a head stabiliser.

Get a helper to stand with their hands showing you where the hitch is and reverse slowly back. Your helper indicates if you are offline.

Raise the front of the trailer by means of the jockey wheel assembly to the required height; roll the trailer up to the rear of the towing vehicle.

If the trailer has tandem axles, raise sufficiently to raise the front wheels off the ground to aid manoeuvrability.

Do not attempt to lift the front of the trailer. Lower the trailer by means of the jockey wheel assembly onto the tow ball of the vehicle.

Over the last foot or so, your helper should use their hands to show you the actual distance between tow ball coupling head.

If you have to stop a few inches short, judge how far back you are going by comparing the front wheels’ movement to something on the ground. Wind the jockey wheel down to lower the coupling head onto the tow ball.

Some coupling heads have a locking handle which stays up then automatically locks onto the ball; others have to be held up and may have an indicator to show the ball is in place.

Once the coupling head appears locked on, lower the jockey wheel a few turns to lift the back of the vehicle to prove the coupling head is on properly, then fully raise the wheel before unclamping it and, finally, locking it fully raised. Check that the wheel is not interfering with the operation of the overrun mechanism.

Attach safety breakaway cable(s) to the rear of the vehicle. This cable will apply the handbrake if for any reason the trailer becomes detached whilst towing. (Clip the breakaway cable onto the special rings some tow bars have or loop it around the bar, making sure it cannot foul the coupling head. Do not loop it around the tow ball neck unless you can find no alternative.)

Check that the breakaway and lighting cables have enough slack for cornering but will not touch the ground.

Plug in the lighting plug, and check all lights and indicators. The electrical plug only fits one way, so line up its cut-out with the lug on the bottom edge of the socket. Some cars have two sockets – use the one with the black cover flap because the white flap is for caravan supplementary electrical systems.

With both braked and un-braked trailers the use of secondary couplings between the car towing bracket and the trailer frame is a legal requirement.

In the case of braked trailers the breakaway cable will activate the trailer handbrake in the event of the trailer becoming uncoupled. 

If the trailer tends to snake at speed the problem could well be insufficient nose weight, low Tyre pressures, incorrect weight distribution of the boat and contents, or a combination of all. Do not proceed to tow until the problem has been recognized and rectified.

 

The maximum towing limit in the UK is 60 m.p.h. on Dual Carriageways and Motorways but remains at 50 m.p.h. on Single Carriageways (Provided that no lower speed limit is in force).

 

Un-braked Trailers Maximum gross weight allowed is 750 Kg. However the gross trailer weight should NOT exceed 50% of the Kerb weight of the Towing Vehicle. Always check the rating plate on the trailer and check your vehicle handbook to ensure you do not exceed its towing capacity.

Braked Trailers may be towed up to the maximum weight recommended by the manufacturer of the Towing Vehicle. Please note that the weights on the type label are adhered to and not the actual weight

Find somewhere with plenty of space and practice reversing. It helps to have someone who knows how to do it to tell you where you are going wrong.

 

 Start by driving far enough to get your trailer and car is a straight line.

Think of your steering wheel as the trailer, the top of the wheel is the front end and the bottom of the wheel is the back end.

Grip the bottom of the wheel and start by backing straight backwards.

Steer a little at a time to turn the trailer to the left,move your hand to your left,small steering movements to turn the trailer to the right move your hand to the right.

Keep track of your outer rear view mirrors.

Straighten out by compensating in the opposite direction.